Surf Photography

I've been surfing in between wind and rainstorms. Some of the sessions have been pretty fun, but only Scripps has been able to consistently clean up overnight. This past Saturday morning was the best, with several good steep lefts and rights. One big left I really did not think i was going to make. On steep drops, I'l often grab the rail and tuck in, but on this wave, i was so late that by the time I reached for the rail, the board was on its way down and I managed a grip that felt like I was holding on behind my rear foot.

I was amazed that I made it, so much so that I raised both arms in celebration and relief while everyone else was hooting at me. Then I cracked an off-the-lip right into the face of a guy who, it turned out, was a photographer. He said he'd gotten a photo of the wave and he handed me a laminated business card. It was quite incongrouous, getting a card in the middle of the ocean, but looking back I think it was the coolest thing I'd seen in a while. Kinda made me think about American ingenuity in the common man, and how rare that seems to be anymore.

Jeez, I sound old..."In my day..."

HA.

www.bluewatersurfpics.photoreflect.com .

Hopefully they'll be up soon, and I hope it turns out.